Tag: Bourbon variety

  • Before + Now: Gervais

    Before + Now: Gervais

    Close-up portrait of a Burundian coffee farmer

    Gervais is a seventy-nine year old coffee farmer from the small, coffee-producing nation of Burundi, East Africa. He started farming coffee in 1960, when Burundi was just two years shy of gaining its independence from Belgian rule. As the oldest person in his community, he has dubbed himself as the “grandfather of Gaharo hill”; the area where he lives and grows his coffee. That, and the fact that his grandchildren seem to follow him wherever he goes. 

    “My house is close to the road. Children in the community often pass by my home to visit. I am also the oldest person in my community. I am like the grandfather of Gaharo hill.”

    Growing up, his father- a traditional beekeeper- taught him how to build a beehive from the wood of the umwungo tree (more commonly known as polyscias fulva, an evergreen indigenous to Burundi). Even though he never became a beekeeper himself, Gervais still grows these trees to sell the wood. 

    If you ask him, Gervais will tell you that his coffee farm is a source of pride and joy. He used to have just under 300 Heirloom Bourbon coffee trees planted on the same plot of land that his house stands on, but as he’s gotten older, he’s started giving them away to his children. As an avid member of Farmer Field School, Gervais’ coffee farm is a model that other farmers in the community can visit to learn best farming practices from him. 

    “The governor of Muramvya1 once visited my plantation during a local spraying campaign because it is so nice.”

    Over the years, he has planted banana palms, bamboo, and avocado trees alongside his coffee to diversify his farm and protect the soil. At one point, he even started a red wiggler worm farm. More recently, Gervais has started producing organic fertilizer for his coffee trees by composting banana stalks and leaves with ash leftover from cooking. 

    When we asked Gervais what he’ll do with the photos he took, he replied,

    “I am going to show my children the photos I took. I want them to remember that I worked in coffee.”

    A young child playing in a coffee tree in Burundi
    “This is my grandchild. He always comes with me to my plantation. He follows me, wherever I go. He knows that coffee is important. He knows that if we have coffee, we have rice.”
    A Burundian coffee farmer pruning his coffee trees in a formal suit
    “I was pruning my trees. I always wear my suit. When I was young, I had many suits. Now, I only have this one.”
    A Burundian woman water vegetables growing outside her father's home
    “My daughter. She was watering the vegetables outside our house.”
    A group of Burundian women sorting coffee at the Long Miles Coffee Washing Station
    “The women who were sorting coffee at the washing station. I love this washing station. It’s encouraging to see women working in coffee, looking after plantations and earning money.”

    Footnotes

    1. Muramvya is a province in the central part of the country, and also Gervais’ home province.

    “Before + Now” is dedicated to bringing the voices of marginalized coffee farmers into the field of vision of everyday coffee consumers. It includes a series of photographs made by coffee farmers in Burundi, East Africa as well as a large-format portrait of each farmer. This series makes it possible not only to see life in East Africa and the coffee process; but also to connect clearly with the dreams, fears, and hopes of coffee farmers. Read more about “Before + Now” here

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